Devi Puja and Shiv Puja are immensely popular in both Jammu and Kashmir. Though we hear more about the non-dualist Shaivite traditions of Kashmir, Shakta worship is also immensely prevalent. In Kashmir Shaivism, Shakti is called ‘Vimarshini’ which makes the expression of ‘Swatantraya’ of Shiva possible. There can be no expression of Shiva without Shakti. So, Jammu and Kashmir is no exception to this nine day festivity of Devi worship that takes different forms across the country. Let me walk you through the festival as it happens in Jammu and Kashmir. 

 

 

In Kashmir there has been an eternal tradition of Kuldevis. Dogras have both Kuldevtas and Kuldevis but in Kashmir there are only Kuldevis which are worshipped all year round. Three prime devis have been historically worshipped, as long as folk memory recollects: Maa Jwala, Maa Sharika/ Ragnya/KheerBhwani and Maa Sharada. Each village and hamlet also has its own ancestral Devi or Kuldevi which is a revered deity on whom people repose faith. Navratri celebration in Kashmir was  a little muted till the influence of mainstream North Indian culture like fasting, kanjakpujan and khetri plantation slowly became part of their festive traditions. Jammu villages and towns have a continuous  tradition of Ram Leela and its conclusion with the effigy burning of Ravana on the day of Dashami. Dussehra of Parade Ground in Jammu is particularly famous as people come from all over the city to witness it. 

A famous Dussehra song in Kashmiri goes like this:

Lala lagya baalbaavas, raamnavasparyalagay

Bhakta bhavay, naadlayay, arad rattan svandare

Chanidarshnuk chum me--havas, raam naavas paryalagay is this translated? Hi muraribojzari, myenbozkhanakanav

Chhukchchothanbhati bhavas raamnaavasparyalagay¹ 

(I surrender to your childhood form, Oh lord.  I give away myself for Rama’s name. 

Oh beautiful, I will call your name full of bhakti during hours of midnight. 

I am desirous of your Darshan. 

Oh flute wielder, hear my tormented calls with your ears. 

You always shower affection on bhaktas full of bhakti bhaav. I give away myself for Rama’s name)  

In Kashmir, Ram Navmi celebration during Chaitra Navratri (April Navratras) is similar to celebration of traditional birthdays. Yellow rice is prepared and served. Sharad Navratras (October/November Navratras) mark the victorious emergence of Sri Rama and are celebrated more even in Kashmir. It is said that if one has to start fasting for Navratras for the first time, they should start in Sharad Navratras instead of the Chaita ones. There is no effigy burning for Dashami but distribution of yellow rice and singing of hymns and songs at the temple is common. It is interesting to note that this birthday preparation of yellow rice made on most auspicious occasions is not sweet but salty. It is a modest dish of haldi spiced rice in which some fried rice are added and mixed for a crunchy delight. 

The Tantrik Traditions of Kashmir are also well known and even studied by prominent scholars including Alexis Sanderson, Sthaneswar Timalsina, Christopher Wallis ‘Hareesh’ and many more. Dr. Mahesh Kaul, Post Doctoral Fellow in Philosophy at Shri Mata Vaishno Devi University Jammu, acknowledged that many initiated Sadhakas go into deep tantric meditational practices during these nine days. 

Kashmiri households do a recitation of Durga Sahastranam which is a collection of one thousand names of Devi considered to be part of Rudrayamal Tantra which is now lost. As Maa Sharda Devi had occurred to a Pandit in his dream on an Astmani day; Ashtami of every month is considered very auspicious. Kheer is prepared in the morning, adding saffron and there is abstention from meat consumption. It is a continuing tradition and people inform their children in far and distant lands also to observe Ashtami every month which gets more pronounced during Sharad Ashtami.

 

 

For a displaced people who are far from their Devi Maa Sharda whose prime abode is currently in POJK, replicas are a great source of spiritual energy. Mata Kheer Bhawani at Tulmula Kashmir who is greatly revered has made herself available at two places in Jammu. It will be unfair to call these replicas of the original shrine. People’s belief in her, aided with founding of natural springs at these locations and continuation of the same traditional fairs and rituals as are associated with Kheer Bhwani in Kashmir has led to firm belief in these two “replica” shrines at Janipur and Jagti in Jammu.

As Kashmiri Hindus were a small group in Kashmir and the Bhandara or community food concept never caught popularity in Kashmir. Instead, they take yellow rice prepared from home for eating  together after puja at the temple. For the first four days of Navratri, no fasting or abstaining from meats is  observed, from day five they abstain from meat but no fasting as such. 

The fasting tradition has also become popular now in Kashmir. Kashmiri  fasting  has its own peculiarities traditionally. For them, adding water to a dish while preparing makes it equivalent to rice, therefore only roasted/fried foods and fruits and milk products are preferred. For a past generation even Diwali was not much celebrated, it was marked with regular Pooja sans the extravagance. Ms. Jeyoti Kaul from IIT Jammu remembers how as children they would go to see the army and CRPF officers bursting crackers and feel excited about it. Now, Diwali is popular among Kashmiris as it is in Jammu and similar to the whole of India. 

Mata Vaishno Devi at Katra is propitiated with Durgasaptashati in its entirety all year round. During Navratri also this recitation continues along with special guest performances by prominent singers from all over India. This year the number of visitors is regulated according to protocol for pandemic control but this did not deter the spirit of celebration in any way. Katra Hosted Sonu Nigam live from the Mata Vaishno Devi Bhawan on day  four of Navratri on 20th October. 

As Navratras is a major festival, adequate security arrangements are made. This year the Civil Secretariat is expected to wind up from Srinagar from 31st October and will move  to the winter capital Jammu.  Every nook and corner of the city is being cleaned up to shine like it too reflects Devi’s sheen to welcome the Office to Jammu from 9th of November.

Mubarak Mandi Heritage Complex is another attraction during Navrataras which hosts a Navratra Food Festival showcasing traditional food, cultural performances as well as access to nooks and corners of the especially lit up monument which is a remnant of the fort complex of proud Dogra Maharajas. It is the same place where the last Maharaja, Hari Singh’s coronation took place. The complex is currently crying for restoration and this year the pandemic came in the way of its illumination. Devotees and visitors are thronging the 3,000 year old Jambu Lochan Fort which houses Mahakali temple, also called Bawe Wali Mata as usual;  enjoying the Bawe Fair and praying earnestly for the pandemic to end  

Ultimately, the mother presides and ensures the smooth running of festivities and life in this city of temples. 

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Picture Credits: Abhishek Sahu

Footnotes:

¹Awadhi tatha Kashmiri LokgeetonmeinLoktatva (2009) by Dr. Veena Budki.

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